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| Chimney Rock trail provides easy hike, majestic views
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| Not up to hiking? The drive through the canyon is still worthwhile
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 | | SCOTT STAATS/CENTRAL OREGONIAN | | Chimney Rock |
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November is one of those in-between months for recreation. Most of the high lakes are closed to fishing. There's not enough snow for skiing and snowshoeing, but too much for hiking. I usually rely on the lower elevations of central Oregon for my November outdoor fun.
One place that's always a sure bet for a late fall or early winter outing is the Crooked River Canyon below Bowman Dam. This area is only a short drive from town and offers hiking, fishing, picnicking, camping, birdwatching and an enjoyable scenic drive.
The Rim Trail to Chimney Rock has always been a favorite of mine. The trail to this unique geological feature is a relatively short hike that most people can handle. The reward from the rim is a view down into the Crooked River Canyon and out at the Cascades.
To reach Chimney Rock, drive south from Prineville on Main Street and continue on Highway 27 where the road enters a wide valley of the Crooked River. A stop at the small wayside just out of town will provide some interesting information about the area's history.
For example, Peter Skene Ogden, a trapper with the Hudson Bay Company, passed through the area in the mid-1820's. About 20 years later, Kit Carson noted in his journal that he journeyed through the gorge seeking help for his friend Lt. John C. Fremont, who was lying ill along the Deschutes River.
The canyon abruptly narrows about five miles farther as you enter into the lava-walled gorge. In another 15 miles you will come to the Chimney Rock Recreation Area, located on BLM land. Parking for the Rim Trail is on the left.
From the trailhead, the trail leads up through sparse juniper and lava rock formations. Most of the mile and a half long trail offers outstanding views of the Crooked River canyon and the surrounding high desert region. Although there is an elevation gain of about 500 feet, the trail is gradual and hikers will want to take their time to enjoy all the sights along the way. One thing I look for in a hike is the view, both near and far. The Rim Trail does not disappoint.
Deer tracks are plentiful, as they use the trail to access the river. A variety of birds can be seen and heard along the trail and in the canyon, so bring along a pair of binoculars. Once up at the rim, a bench at an overlook provides a place to sit and take in a spectacular view. To the west Mount Bachelor, Broken Top and the Three Sisters jut up from the high desert landscape like beacons. Below, the Crooked River snakes its way amidst the towering basalt cliff walls, ever continuing to tirelessly carve its way down through the volcanic rock.
From the overlook, it's an easy walk to Chimney Rock. As you round the last bend in the trail, you may be surprised to see the rock rise up before you. Another bench is located at the base of the rock where hikers can take in the view of the canyon.
The volcanic cliffs, some up to 600 feet high, formed about a million years ago from eruptions of local volcanoes. Western juniper, sagebrush and native bunchgrasses blanket the hillsides. A few large ponderosa pines along the river provide good perches for many raptors.
Allow about three hours for the entire hike, including lunch and time to take in the surroundings. Make the hike part of a family or group outing. The recreation site across from the trailhead has picnic and camping areas located along the river.
For those who don't feel up to a hike, the drive itself through the scenic canyon is worth the trip. In 1989, the Bureau of Land Management added the 43-mile segment of Highway 27 south from Prineville to Highway 20 to the Back Country Byways program. The eight-mile section of the Crooked River below Bowman Dam was added to the National Wild and Scenic River System in 1988. This free-flowing stretch is managed as a recreational river.
Bring along a fishing rod and try your luck with the native redband trout and mountain whitefish in the river. Pack a picnic lunch and stop at one of the many BLM recreation areas along the way. Or even consider camping out.
Watch for ducks and geese in the river. Overhead, look for red-tailed hawks, ospreys and the occasional golden or bald eagle. Deer can often be seen on the riverbanks.
Instead of retracing your tracks back down the canyon to Prineville, make a loop back through Bend or Redmond by continuing up the Crooked River a few more miles and cross over Bowman Dam. Built in 1962, the earthen dam stands 245 feet high and is 800 feet across.
In a few miles after leaving Prineville Reservoir, you can either turn right at the top of the grade and head back toward Alfalfa or continue the scenic drive by heading straight and reaching Highway 20, where you could turn right and head for Bend.
Whether you come for a hike, a picnic, a day of fishing or simply a drive, there's something for everyone to see and do in this scenic canyon.
Scott Staats is a freelance outdoors writer. His column can be read every Tuesday in the Central Oregonian. He can be reached at: falcon@crestviewcable.com |
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