558 N. Main St., Prineville, OR 97754 | (541) 447-6205
There’s something magical about the Metolius River.
My cabin fever finally got the better of me when the sun broke through after a dreary day of rain and wind so I went in search of some of this magic.
As I drove west, I took it as a good omen when the blanket of clouds lifted to reveal the snow-clad Three Sisters. The harsh beauty of their blustery summits is better appreciated from a distance this time of year.
It’s in these clinging glaciers and snowfields where the Metolius River is born. Small streams flow down from the mountains and run into what can best be described as an ancient dam, known today as Black Butte.
About one-and-a half million years ago, Black Butte erupted and backed up water from old stream channels it now sits atop, creating the swampy area south of Black Butte. The water seeps through the porous rock under this stratovolcano and emerges again at Metolius Springs. The Metolius River is considered one of the nation’s largest spring-fed rivers.
Although the Metolius River is only 28.6 miles long from its headwaters to Lake Billy Chinook, it has much to offer. Visitors should first stop in at the Head of the Metolius to view the birth of this river. A short walk leads to a viewing area of the springs and, on clear days, Mount Jefferson looming in the distance.
The river drains a basin that covers 315 square miles and contains 110 miles of perennial streams, 324 miles of intermittent streams, 42 lakes and 121 ponds. The water level in the river is relatively constant and the water temperature remains a consistent 48°F. In 1988, the Metolius River was officially designated a National Wild and Scenic River.
I headed as far downriver as I could drive and parked at Lower Bridge. As I got out of my rig I heard a noise that I couldn’t identify right away – clear, loud, musical – zeet repeated over and over. Squirrel? Wren? Then it came to me just seconds before I saw the bird streaking across the surface of the river – American dipper.
The birds are usually a little skittish, but I snuck up behind a big ponderosa and watched it for a minute as it conducted its namesake “dipping” deep-knee bends on a moss-covered log. As it looked my way, it appeared to be blinking at me. This is actually white feathers on its eyelids that cause the eyes to flash when it blinks. It also has an extra eyelid called a nictitating membrane that allows it to see underwater. Dippers produce more oil than most birds, which may help them stay warmer when finding food in cold streams.
The birds can walk underwater and dive and swim against strong currents, eating insects and other small invertebrates taken from the stream bottom. Their wings are used as paddles under the water.
I prepared myself for hiking in snow and cold. After all, it is mid-winter. However, the temperature hovered around 50 degrees and it was difficult to find even patches of snow. I left the snow boots in the car and donned my hiking boots. The cool river breeze convinced me to still dress warm.
Although the West Metolius Trail on the west side of the river leads a mile and a half to Candle Creek Campground, I decided to stay on the east side of the river and follow a less-traveled hiker/angler trail.
Not far down the trail I spotted three ducks in a calm part of the river. From a distance, the light blotch on the side of the heads of two of them made me think bufflehead or eared grebes. As I focused the binocs on them, I identified them as hooded mergansers, two males and a female. As I approached they swam easily downriver through a pretty good series of rapids, bobbing up and down as if on some liquid rollercoaster.
Then another loud noise. This time deep, harsh honking sounds. The great blue heron took off from the other side of the river. Standing four feet tall with at least that much wingspan, it takes this big bird a while to gain any significant altitude. I watched as the heron flew to a branch in a large ponderosa about 50 feet up where it could watch for its next meal. It had the river at its command.
Unwinged anglers also flock to the river in search of its rainbow trout (aka redsides), bull trout, kokanee salmon and whitefish. Angling is catch-and-release, fly-fishing only with barbless hooks. Be sure to read the regulations before heading out, they can get a bit complicated depending on time of year and section of river.
When compared to other basins in the west with bull trout, the Metolius River tributaries have some of the highest densities documented for juvenile fish with up to 21 juveniles per 100 square meters of habitat. The smaller streams have undercut banks, overhanging vegetation and large woody debris, all important habitat components for the young trout.
Pausing along the river by a huge decaying ponderosa log, I thought about how this rotting wood returns to the soil so other trees and plants can grow. Looking at the river, I thought about how it flows back to the ocean where water evaporates then falls back to the earth, emerges again as springs and small streams, feeding the rivers...
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Getting there
Go west from Sisters on Hwy 20 for 10 miles, turn right at sign for Camp Sherman on Forest Service Road 14. In a few miles, follow the signs to “Head of the Metolius.” Wizard Falls Fish Hatchery is
